We’ve had Vietnam on our list for years. And boy, was it worth the wait! Rarely have we ever seen and done such a variety of things in one trip, and I can honestly say that we loved every minute of it.
Our journey started in the northern part of Vietnam, winding down this fascinating country to Ho Chi Minh City – formerly, and still affectionately known by many as Saigon – and the Mekong Delta, then a short hop across to Cambodia’s Siem Reap and the wonders of the Angkor Wat ruins.
Having always enjoyed Asian food, sampling the culinary delights was high on our list, and the fresh subtle flavours didn’t disappoint – especially when we took the Vespa tour around Hanoi’s street food hotspots and ventured out of Hoi An for a laughter-filled cookery class.
Soups, pancakes, noodles, rice dishes and sumptuous fruits (golden mango… OMG!). An array of coffees flavoured with coconut, caramel and egg – all delicious – and even locally made, highly prized chocolate. And the cakes!
Walking off all those calories is a joy – bustling markets and temples, evenings strolling beside the rivers. Yes, the cities are crowded and busy, with a billion scooters, mopeds, bikes and tuk-tuks patiently jostling along, but the craziness just added to the fun.
From the lantern boats, ferries and speedboats on the city rivers to the longboats and coconut boats of the side streets, to the old fishing boats on the lakes – Vietnam and Cambodia take on a whole new perspective from the water. We loved gliding along the Trang An river in our private sampan, powered only by our kindly oarswoman who controlled the oars with her feet, as is the local way.
This corner of Asia has certainly seen its share of horrors, but the gentle grace of all the people we met is itself a lesson in humanity. In South Vietnam we saw the terrifying tunnels at Cu Chi, used by the Viet Cong to hide from their attackers; the brutality of the Hanoi Hilton prison; the hidden arsenals of the resistance fighters. Through it all, a nation emerged full of joyful, peaceful, welcoming, kind people – proudly tolerant of all faiths. The pace of life is undeniably slower and often feels Zen-like, but always with a smile.
We went at the start of the rainy season – significantly less crowded – and were rewarded with virtually no rain, although there were certainly times when a downpour would have been a welcome relief from the 38°C heat and 90% humidity. Having Angkor Wat virtually to ourselves was a huge bonus. The scale and detail of the temples is astonishing, surrounded by a five-kilometre-long moat – truly one of the wonders of the world.
Vietnam and Cambodia are emerging rapidly, and we sensed a scramble to create comfortable tourist experiences with many global brands now in evidence. However, the charm and authenticity of smaller, boutique hotels suited us perfectly – it felt as if we were immersed in a different world, and certainly added to our enduring affection for the people and places. The hotel staff, transfer drivers and guides were genuinely helpful and always punctual.
One last surprise
One of the great advantages of independent travel is the people you meet. And so it was that a lady called Michelle from Tasmania said to us, almost in passing: “if you only do one thing from Saigon, go and see the Black Lady Mountain.”
Despite the five-hour round trip, this spiritual site on the top of a 1,000m high mountain proved to be the emotional highlight of our entire trip. We gazed in astonishment at its awe-inspiring statues and fountains, its picture-perfect landscaped gardens and its breathtaking art. It genuinely brought tears to our eyes – reminiscent of seeing the Pyramids, the Taj Mahal, Iguaçu Falls, Machu Picchu and Sydney Harbour for the first time.
It’s not included on most itineraries but take our word for it – it is special.
We finally ticked Vietnam and Cambodia off our list. And immediately added them back on – because there’s so much more to see. But for now, thank you Vietnam, thank you Cambodia. You made us very happy and gave us so many wonderful memories.
A few of our highlights
- Ba Den Mountain (also known as Black Virgin Mountain and Black Lady Mountain) – a day trip from Saigon
- Angkor Wat and the Tomb Raider Temple, near Siem Reap
- The landscape of Ninh Binh – rice fields and karsts
- The market, cookery class and coconut boat ride in Hoi An
- Our Vespa food tour in the Old Town of Hanoi, including Train Street
- Ho Island – a beautiful community on the Mekong Delta
- The fishing village on stilts at Tonlé Sap Lake, Cambodia
- The food. Everywhere.
- The value. Everywhere.
- The beautiful people. Everywhere.
If you’re looking for the perfect combination of fun, sun, culture, food and adventure – here is the trip for you. I promise!
Gina Silverstone
Luxury Travel Consultant
